4.25.2017 – Eleven:Eleven – New England IPA Homebrewing

Even though I still have not been able to nail down an “All Whirlpool” New England IPA, I consistently see great looking examples on groups and Homebrewing sites that boast “0IBU” or “Whirlpool Only” and I’m motivated to try these to get the results.  I’ve come to the conclusion that either I’m doing something wrong in process, or some individuals haven’t really made a quality example of this style.  Now, that’s not a knock against anybody.  Everybody starts somewhere and no two people taste alike.  All that means is that I haven’t had it work for me yet.

On this brew day, I will take the lessons learned from my last 0IBU experiment which was an absolute failure.  Following that example, I vowed to never follow an unproven recipe again.  I’m going to pair this with something that I know works in terms of grist and kettle addition timing.  Don’t let anybody fool you, there is no such thing as a 0IBU addition.  In quantity, hops going into the kettle, whirlpool, or dry hop can add bitterness.  Whirlpool additions are a tool for the collection, not the only piece in the collection.  You don’t build a house with only a hammer.  If you do, you’re a better person than I.

Grains/Fermentables:

Two Row

Flaked Wheat

Flaked Oats
Dextrose

Golden Naked Oats

Hops:

Apollo (late/fo)

Amarillo (late/fo)

Summer (late/fo)

Kohatu (fo/wp)

Citra (wp/dry)

Azacca (wp/dry)

Other Ingredients:

Yeast Nutrient

Irish Moss

Calcium Chloride

Gypsum
Lactic Acid

Yeast:

Tree House Brewing Co Yeast Harvested From Julius / Green Cans – 6th Generation

I began by processing my grains and measuring out my hops according to my recipe.  I’ve put a tighter crush on the grain mill at my LHBS (Adventures In Homebrewing) hoping to step up my efficiency.  I preheated my strike water to the desired temperature and missed my mash temperature of 154F and came in at nearly 156F.   My mash PH came in at 5.3.  Added to my mash was a small amount of Amylase Enzyme to assist with my conversion and efficiency.  I mashed for 75 minutes.  I recirculated my first runnings through vorlauf and proceeded to sparge.

I was told that efficiency may be an issue because my sparge is not taking long enough.  This time, I steeped my sparge water in the grains bringing the temperature up to 168 and held for 10 minutes before recirculating through vorlauf and trickling the second runnings out to my brew kettle.  This process took nearly an hour.

According to the information provided by my brewing software, brewer’s friend, I collected 8.5 gallons of wort and proceeded to boil.  The boil was uneventful and contained hop additions at 20, 10, 5 and Flame Out.  I then chilled the wort to 160F and added the largest whirlpool addition that I ever have.  I allowed the wort to stand for 20 minutes before chilling to 100F, transferring to my fermenter through syphon, aerating, and pitching my yeast.  The yeast of choice was a multi generation, multi-step starter of my tree house culture collected from cans of Julius and Green.   My measured OG was 1.080.

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I immediately noticed that I had a problem on my hand.  The 8.5 gallon fermenter was about half full.  This was intended to be a 5.5 gallon yield with 5 gallons or so going into the keg.  I hadn’t even dry hopped yet.  It had become apparent that my brewing software does not factor in for hop absorption or I just don’t know how to set it properly.  I haven’t had this issue before.  Do you leave your kettle trub behind or do you transfer off of that to your fermenter?  Let me know in the comments below.

 The beer fermented off 70F, again hoping to coax out the fruit esters.  Fermentation began within hours and filled my cellar with aromas of peach, mango, fruit, and everything delicious.  I won’t say juice, however.  On day 4 as fermentation slowed, I added my first round of dry hops.  On day 8 I had reached terminal gravity of 1.018 and added my second round of dry hops.  There was a little off taste in the beer so I had decided to wait 48 hours for the yeast to clean up.

I then transferred off to my keg and noticed that the drain spout from the speidel fermenter was just spitting hop sediment and trub.  I had to syphon off the top into a keg that had been purged of oxygen.  I had collected just over 3.5 gallons of beer.  I could have gotten about a half-gallon more, but it was too murky and was plugging up the siphon.  It looks good!  The taste is quite muddled and more bitter than I would care to admit.  But the sediment on the bottom of my glass leads me to believe this is still conditioning out.  The Tree House yeast fights you for bright beers in a similar fashion to Conan.

I waited a week while cold conditioning and drew an initial pour.  While the beer isn’t fully carbonated, it’s much more mild and enjoyable.  This was my first time using Golden Naked Oats (GNO).  My lesson learned is not to treat them the same as flaked oats or oat malt.  I will scale these back about 50% in hopes of drying the final product out.  The malt backbone is complex like granola, but without being a cloying malt-bomb.  The level of hop saturation is ideal, yet too complex.  Perhaps 6 varieties of hops were too much.  The aroma is strong, but not overpowering.  Imagine a big sticky pine tree in the tropics that gives off fruit.  You pick this fruit and bite into it.  It is earthy, with a touch of citrus, and fruit.  It tastes the way it smells.  I believe that is the Kohatu at work.  I really enjoy Kohatu when paired with Citra.  Again, the sediment remains on the bottom of the glass which makes the final sip not very enjoyable.

Given my past results on racking beers made with Tree House yeast to a serving keg from a conditioning keg, I decided to give it another shot.  I transferred the bright, carbonated, beer to a serving keg that has been purged of oxygen via closed loop transfer.

Low and behold, the first few pours from the serving keg after waiting 24 hours were excellent.  Any off flavors were left behind in the conditioning keg and all that’s left is solid, bright beer.  I took this pic just before sundown which makes the beer look darker than it really is, but it’d say it’s a solid 4-5 SRM in color.  Much lighter and brighter than my previous NEIPA’s.  Contrary to popular belief, time does these beers well.  It’s been nearly 4 weeks since brew day and the beer has finally come together properly.  It is at this point where it would be ready for packaging.

For anybody local or interested, Big Brew Day is coming up 5/6/2017.  If you’re a homebrew or interested in Homebrewing, I highly advise you to get out there and experience this with some fellow brewers.  I will be brewing on behalf of the Downriver Brewer’s Guild at Adventures in Homebrewing in Taylor Michigan all day.  We will be doing an Olde Ale.  Come on down and say hi!

-Cheers!

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8 thoughts on “4.25.2017 – Eleven:Eleven – New England IPA Homebrewing

    • I used to transfer all of it to the fermenter as well. It depends on what I’m making. For me to use the Speidel fermenter and actually use the spout on it, I must leave the trub behind. Kettle trub combined with settled dry hop matter will cover my spout and make taking gravity readings a difficult task.. Especially when my thief is broken lol.

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  1. Mike,

    I’ve been leaving all (as much as possible) my trub behind before pitching lately.
    I’ll finish chilling and transfer to a glass carboy and then clean up the brew kettle and area. I let the beer settle for an hour or so and then rack into my Brewbucket to ferment. The main reason to do this is to have as clean a yeast cake as possible.

    Link to a blog post I’ve mentioned this method in:

    http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/03/nelson-pale-ale.html?m=1

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    • Interesting. So you are essentially racking to a carboy before racking to your fermentation vessel to allow as much material as possible to break and get left behind. Have you used the clear beer draught system? If you’re as particular as me about keeping your beers clean, you’ll love this. You can be a little “lazier” and not worry about a plugged pickup tube. All you get is bright beer off the top of the keg. Literally, its good to the last pour. Main squeeze kicked for me last night and I was able to drink the blown glass with no weird yeasty flavors.

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      • Mike,

        Once the beers in the keg it’s fine…no worries there. I’m trying to harvest as much clean yeast as possible. I don’t even dry hop in primary anymore. And what I would do as a double dry hop combined I do as a big single one in the keg in a bag. The yeast left behind in the Brewbucket is very clean with as little trub as possible from the kettle and really no hop debris from the dry hopping.

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  2. Nice article! For your question, I always just dump everything into the fermenter. I tend to leave my beers to ferment for at least 3 weeks, so I find that once it’s time to keg all of the solids are nice and compact and easy to avoid picking up in the transfer.

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    • Good plan. In my most recent post regarding the Olde ale, the batch was split into 2 fermenters. One was siphoned off the top and the second was a dump and run. The results will be invalid since two different yeasts were used. Maybe a split batch of something is in order.

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